
Most of my best childhood memories involve food or food-related activities. Mom did most of the day-to-day cooking, but Dad loved to get his hands in the kitchen now and again. My Dad actually taught my Mom to cook--or really to cook with love for the love of eating great food. They cooked a lot together when they were newly-marrieds-without-kids. I mean marathon cooking, where they'd spend all day in the kitchen making, for example, homemade lobster bisque for a dinner party. Or they'd go out to a restaurant, fall in love with a dish, and try to recreate it at home, making it over and over again to tweak their recipe into the perfect replication.
This is one of those recipes. One night, way back in the day, they dined at
Peter Dow's
Cafe Juanita. And there they ate a putanesca like they'd never eaten before. It wasn't your basic spicy tomato sauce with olives and capers. Capers, yes, but olives, no. And the typically brassy sauce was instead sophisticatedly sultry, slightly seductively sweet, with just the right kick of hot pepper and tangy, salty capers. With that first taste in mind, my dad carefully crafted a sauce to fit his memory. For almost as long as I can remember, this has been one of my family's favorite dishes, one of our few go-tos in our ever-changing recipe repertoire.
Because we've never reduced this recipe to writing--it's like a true family recipe, passed on by my parents by showing me how to make it, what the ratios look like, rather than how they are measured--the following recipe is an approximation. But this dish is also pretty darn forgiving, like most comfort food, so a little more or a little less of something or other won't a disaster make.